A. surfing small waves in north seawell, mass., this morning in 52-degree water, 65-degree air, sunny, west winds
B. “blue crush” on tv after my surf session
C. “dog the bounty hunter” on a different channel at the same time
answer: It’s a tie between B & C. Those suck more than a mediocre surf session, and thus pull you furthest from any sense of aloha.
this is where i keep my rhymes
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seawell breakfast joint wall decor. the original snoop dog.
dawn patrol at a set of high tide sandbars. glassy, peaky, hollow, headhigh with only a few.
photo: The Russian General
seawell stonemasons
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fun surf session on sunday morning with vinnie d., bob jr. and the yeti. we got the gang back together. weather was great, waves were so-so but lots of power to them. longer period swells don’t always work so hot on the windswell sandbars and the seawell lowtide sandbars are tweaked again on top of that, dammit.
got one little quick barrel, a couple cutbacks, one big floater. these little gems should carry me over until the next session.
it was warm and sunny for a change. that was great. switched to my 4/3 wetsuit, boots and gloves. wore the hood now and again.
some kid on the beach was frothing about surfing when i got out of the water. i dug a hole for my fin and let him stand barefoot on my bing longboard. he was so happy.
he asked me to paddle back out and get one more wave so he could watch.
as far as what surfing is all about, i’ll echo what aaron meza once wrote about skateboarding: “kids get it.”
sewercap cobblestone sunburst
nighttime, seawell, mass.
whatever u do don’t think these kind of thoughts this wkend. these are wintertime thoughts. it’s springtime. love a few beers and sing some sophie b hawkins on someone’s voicemail instead.
About Seawell, Mass.
